The cross is the best-known form of Ethiopian and Eritrean jewellery, and few traditions have produced so many designs of it. This guide explains the three kinds of cross, what the style names Axum, Lalibela and Gondar mean on a pendant, and how to choose one in gold.
A long tradition
Christianity was adopted in the Kingdom of Aksum in the 4th century, under King Ezana. Over the centuries that followed, craftsmen in the Ethiopian and Eritrean highlands developed an unusually wide range of cross designs, and museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art hold examples from many periods.
Three kinds of cross
| Kind | Who carries it | What it is |
|---|---|---|
| Processional cross | The church | A large cross with a socket at its base, mounted on a staff and carried in ceremonies |
| Hand cross | Priests | A cross held in the hand and used to give blessings |
| Neck cross | The faithful | A small cross worn on a cord or chain. This is the form that became jewellery |
Church crosses were made in brass, silver, wood and iron, and many metal ones were cast by the lost-wax method, in which each cross is formed from its own wax model. Pendants today are made in silver and in gold.
What the style names mean
Jewellers group pendant designs under three names taken from historic centres of the church: Aksum, the ancient capital; Lalibela, known for its rock-hewn churches; and Gondar, the capital from the 17th to the 19th century. The descriptions below are how the trade commonly uses the names. Scholars use them less strictly, and many designs mix features.
| Style | How it usually looks |
|---|---|
| Axum-style | The most geometric of the three: clean lines and a strong upright |
| Lalibela-style | An interwoven lattice, often inside a rounded or oval outline |
| Gondar-style | Rounder and more ornamental, with circular and flower-like motifs |
A style name describes a design. It does not mean the piece was made in that town, and it does not mean the piece is old. We say Lalibela-style, and we never call a newly made cross "ancient" or "antique".
The woven pattern
Many crosses are built from a lattice in which one line loops and crosses itself without a break. It is commonly read as a sign of everlasting life.
Wearing a cross
In the Orthodox Tewahedo tradition, a cord called a mateb is tied at baptism and worn as a sign of faith, often with a cross on it. Many families give or wear a cross at the two feasts that UNESCO lists as Intangible Cultural Heritage: Meskel, the Finding of the True Cross, in late September, and Timkat, the Epiphany, in January. Weddings are the other occasion for which crosses and sets are bought.
Ethiopia and Eritrea are two countries with shared and distinct traditions. These crosses belong to both, and we make them for customers from both.
Choosing a cross in gold
- Karat. Our Habesha jewellery is 21K gold: 87.5% pure, stamped 875.
- Weight. The price follows the weight, so ask for it in grams. Open lattice designs look large for their weight.
- Size and chain. Decide whether the cross is for every day or for occasions, and whether it needs a chain.
- Custom work. If you have a family cross or a photo of a design, we can make a piece to match. See custom jewellery.
The price is worked out the same way as for every piece: weight multiplied by the day's 21K rate, plus the making charge, plus VAT. Our price guide shows the arithmetic.
See our Habesha collection
Our Habesha jewellery is at Branch 4: Shop S1, Galaxy Plaza Hotel Building, Gold Souk, Deira, Dubai. Open daily from 10:00 to 22:30.